David, not being there nor having any schematics I have no idea if it contains any 240/120 transformers or what, so I cant speak as to how its wired. (Don't know how anyone can not seeing it??)
For years past stoves or dryers etc. that had BOTH 120 and 240 loads were fed with ONLY 3 wires, two Hots L1 & L2 (240 volts) and a bare/green Equipment Grounding Conductor. Of course that meant the bare/green was used to carry live return current. If that bare green was bonded to the appliances outer conductive metal case while a 120 volt load was in use and you touched it, there can potentially be a parallel current flow through your body YIKES. Im sure you wouldn't open an electrical box and strip away the insulation off the white Neutral and tell your grandkids to go ahead and touch that wire little Johnny!!! Well, if the case/frame is bonded to a wire that's carrying current YOURE DOING THE SAME THING. Ever wonder why that white wire is insulated but the ground is bare and bonded to case/frame HMMMMMMMMMM
Then the NEC and perhaps UL and other knowledgeable electrical minds improved safety by requiring four wires to an appliance that had BOTH 120 and 240 volt loads. Two Hots, Neutral, Equipment Grounding Conductor. That way the equipment grounding conductor is dedicated for carrying fault current ONLY and there's no live current carrying conductor bonded to the outer metal case/frame which you touch Yayyyyyyyyyy much safer
However as I have said, just because trained professional electricians and engineers do things a certain way that agrees with the NEC's panel of expert recommendations or UL regardless if any codes have been adopted or not, yall feel free to wire and do things as you please if you know better then the experts, its you and your kids and grandkids lives you are gambling with not mine.
NO WARRANTY get it, this may be right it may be wrong, I'm NOT saying it is or it isn't, do as you please.
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