The specification that states there is too much window space proportionate to the square footage of the room, is about as stupid as it sounds, how many old houses exist in Mass. with large windows of the past ?
What I would want to know (and I recognize you are more frustrated by the above) what R value or what value of the exterior wall, is established with new construction. Get that on the table, then detail the rough opening and take that to a manufacturer, see what existing window models may perform or equal that rating, I would think its out there. Then it would be a matter of having custom windows/glazing built, subsequently properly installed to achieve a uniform rating.
I could not buy this for a minute without knowing the above, I worked extensively in the metal and glass industry, know commercial window assemblies inside out, usually the window performs, but its the installation that presents problems, ie; the rough opening. On the residential end, there has to be a thermally broken window, with glazing that will perform at that size, I can't see the insulated glass being too thick to create a larger air space, and increasing the window assembly to not fit into a residential rough opening, losses always occur around the rough opening, air and water infiltration, I have performed the tests in mock up laboratories, on commercial windows, know the routine. There is a lot to obtaining ratings or certifications by reference standards, A.A.M.A and you may search the link to find more information about this.
To heck with the contractor, Allan is right, they just don't want to deal with it, not too many are well versed in solving problems like this. I've heard this can't be done or that can't be done, 14 years ago, an old bow window, on the weather side of the house was deteriorated on the bottom, the sill, the bottom operating sash, needed to be re-glazed etc., contractor said it needs to be replaced this and that, can't be done ( meaning we don't want to do it)
I set up scaffolding, I removed what was rotten, I made the bottom sill myself on the sawhorses, CCA pressure treated wood, I made new bottom rails for the 2 operating sash, I called a buddy in the glass business, gave him the daylight opening (D.L.O.) of all the little windows comprising the overall unit, ordered the new insulated glass, re-glazed it, made new glazing stops, installed with new glazing compound, painted etc. it was less than a new unit installed, only mistake I made was not ordering Low E on on of the surfaces of the insulated glass, there are surfaces # 1, 2, 3, 4.
The window performs well to this day, much better than before, no real noticeable thermal loss, no need to replace and IT COULD BE DONE !!!! the repair that is. With the winter sun and all the glazing on the south side, it keeps the house very warm during the day, no matter how cold, as long as the sun is out.
I can't imagine being told what you were here, change all the window sizes, that sure is a bunch of trash !!!!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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