NCWayne said: (quoted from post at 04:55:32 05/05/14) Most regular piston compressors need nothing more than a good 30 weight, non-detergent oil to run. The main difference between the non-detergent oil and regular detergent engine oil when it comes to being run in a compressor is that it has less of a chance of foaming....at least that"s what I have always been told.
Whut he said... I brought a used almost new compressor and the guy gave me a case of Ingersoll Rand select compressor oil. Till then I ran 30wt non detergent oil... I used the IR select in both of my compressors and liked the fact that the oil did not turn to milk real soon like it did with other oils...
I pay the price for IR select if the price bother me I would use 30wt ND.... I don't think the IR oil will make it last any longer the main thing is to change the oil... I change it every six mo. I cycle mu compressors I run one in the winter and one in the summer its a 6 mo cycle...
This post was edited by Hobo,NC at 19:04:35 05/04/14.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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