1 1/4" isn't much of a bend for something that long. I'd try something simple first. I used to build a lot of big oilfield skids. Everyone of them had to be straightened after welding. Put some weight on the trailer over the axles, maybe 1000 lbs. or more if you can. Block up the front corners of the trailer so the jack isn't taking all the weight. Then use a jack to lift the back of the trailer. The wheels about 3" inches off the ground. Then take your heating tip and heat up the top of the tubing where the bend starts. Looks like a few inches back of the angle for the fenders. Only heat the top of the tubing but make sure the corners of the tubing get hot about 3/8" down the sides. The corners are where most of strength is so they have to be hot. I think you'd only need to heat it about 1-1 1/2" wide at the most. Use some soap stone to make lines in the same place on each frame rail. I'd stand in the middle and heat it evenly on both sides till it starts to glow. You don't want/need to heat it where it's almost ready to melt. Then just let it cool off on it's own with the jack holding it up. As the heated area cools it should contract and pull it straight. I wouldn't use water to cool it because it's such a minor bend. Once it cools to room temperature, take the jack off and check it for straightness. If it needs to go more you can always heat it again and maybe use a wet rag to help it contract but the first try I'd see if it will pull without using water. Heating the top to let it contract is better then heating the bottom and trying to stretch it.
To reinforce it after it's straight, I'd just stitch weld some 1/4" fish plates on the inside of the frame about a foot long or so. Only weld the fish plates along the top and bottom and not vertical on the 8" side. Channel would be overkill for reinforcing because the tubing frame already holds it from twisting in other directions. All you want to do is help prevent it from bending down again. There's no concerns about it bending from the side or any other direction. When you weld the new cross members in stagger your welding and do the vertical welds first. Weld the top and bottom of the cross members last.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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