The trouble is that the slave cylinder is designed to only hold pressure one direction. The way you are trying to use it as a pump WILL NOT WORK!!!! It will suck in AIR 100% of the time.
Also who ever told you to bleed from the bottom is Wrong. You have to push the oil from the top down. The way the slave cylinder sets will allow an air pocket in it. You can't push it back up.
Also the way you are trying to bleed the slave cylinder retracted will work IF you do it correctly. Which you are not doing. With the slave cylinder pushed in all of the way you are making the volume smaller. This is easier to bleed. So here is how you would do it.
1) Hold the slave cylinder in all of the way. 2) Bleed it like you would normally. Meaning push the pedal and open the bleeder. Bleed like normal. 3) Where you are making a mistake. DO NOT let the slave cylinder out while the pedal is down. The pedal will force the slave cylinder out some when there is not air but do not let it move all the way out while the pedal is held down. Just make the fluid push you out some. Then let the pedal up. This opens a port to the reservoir. NOW let the slave cylinder out. It can suck the fluid down from the reservoir this way. The way you where doing it with the pedal held down makes the slave cylinder pull a vacuum on the system. There is no way for it to pull more fluid with the pedal held down. So it is more than likely pulling outside air in or air from the lock out cylinder.
Here is how I have always done them manually.
1) You can try to bleed the slave cylinder before rebuilding it. Just put your line on the bleeder. The other end has to be submerged in fluid. Have the bleeder open a little bit. Pump oil(with the pedal) through it until you are not getting any more air. LOCK the bleeder. !!!DO not push the pedal at this time!!! IF you do you will suck the air out of the lockout cylinder and have to start all over. Leave your line on the bleeder and the end submerged.
2) Put a second line on the bleeder on the lock out cylinder. Open the bleeder THEN start pumping fluid through it until you do not see any more air. LOCK the bleeder !!Again do not push the pedal any more now!!!
3) Move back to the slave cylinder. Open the bleeder and THEN push the pedal. You may see a little more air but it should not be much less.
4) Go back to the lock out and bleed it again.
You need to move fluid and air first. If you keep pumping the cylinders they work air back and forth between them and it will take longer to bleed them. So by using the hoses you can move the fluid and air in the cylinders without moving the cylinder pistons.
Work back and forth until you are not getting any more air. Then lock both bleeders and push the clutch down. You should have full pedal now. If you don't then the slave cylinder will have to be rebuilt. The kit is about $100 just for the piston.
You can get the air out this way it just takes time. LOTS of time. I have spent a day getting all of the air out manually.
Here is how I do it now. I have a pressure tank that holds about a gallon of brake fluid. It has a hose I hook where the reservoir usually goes on the master cylinder. The I apply about 5 psi air pressure to the tank. Then I go down to the slave cylinder and open the bleeder until I get ZERO air. The open the lock out cylinder bleeder until I get no air. Then I take my tank off up top. I then fill the reservoir while I have the line clamped. I hold my finger over the line and remove the clamp. I put the line back on the master cylinder while it has fluid pressure pushing any little bit of air out of it.
I can usually get the system bleed in under an hour this way. Email me if you want and we can exchange PH# and I can maybe talk you through doing it.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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