Remember that those advertised ratings for the car engines are not equivlent ratings to the way a tractor is rated. That 95 horse engine was rated at 3300 RPM and just the bare engine with nothing on, no water pump or generator to take power. That engine had a taxable (A.M.A.) horsepower of 26.1 and that is a lot closer to the tractor engine. If you would take that 95 horse enging put in a tractor and put it on a dyno at PTO speeds so speed would equal the orignal tractor engine you would come out with a figure of about equal to the NAA tractor of about 32 PTO horsepower compaired to the tractor engine power of depending on year of 23 to 25 PTO horsepower. So with the missleading figures of car rated power to tractor rated is why so mamy people like you get confused thinking you will have that 95 horse at the PTO. The actuall horsepower is so close to the NAA horse power and that is why after the NAA came out they did not make a engine conversion for it as it was cheaper and easier just to upgrade to a NAA but before the NAA was out those conversions were the only option to get that 30+ horse, not a 95 horse in a Ford tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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