Posted by RayP(MI) on August 28, 2013 at 14:07:41 from (207.241.137.116):
Older Whirlpool gas dryer converted to propane. Ignitor cycles properly, (recently replaced with newer "M" style.). Ignitor sensor switching properly. Appears that valve is not opening when ignitor switches off. Sometimes gas comes on and burns for 30 seconds or so. Then goes back off. I have one voltmeter across the ignitor sensor, and it is reading properly - Voltage when switch open (ignitor hot) - no votage when switch closed (ignitor cold). Volt meter on incoming wires to valve/ignitor/sensor is showing voltage, indicating that upline thermostats are conducting. This would mean the valve or the solonoids are not working properly? New soloniod coils run about $90, and I don"t want to know what the valve AND solonoid coils cost...
Any suggestions?
(Got a feeling this is going to cost me a NEW washer AND dryer before this all plays out.)
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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