Posted by Will Herring on April 06, 2013 at 17:08:51 from (50.103.233.28):
Nothing too major, halfway through tilling the garden it died (out of gas). So in trying to re-start it, the pull rope broke. So I took the front housing off of this old Montgomery Ward's tiller (late 70s/early 80s vintage) to replace the rope. Unfortunately, the front piece that actually holds the recoil starter is like riveted on (plenty of youtube videos showing how to fix this seem to have more take-apart assemblies than my old one does). Or else I just didn't pay enough attention to what I was doing in my rush to fix it and I could've made life easier for myself, haha.
So at any rate, I had to unbend the tabs and pull the disc out, and then the recoil spring came out with it. So fixing the rope was a 5 minute deal. However, the tedious part is that it took me at least 8 tries to get the recoil spring wrapped up tightly and back into the housing since it was so deep of a spot to get it back into and there didn't seem to be any sort of ring to hold it for putting it back together -- so it wound up being a 45 minute job by the time I was done.
This post was edited by Will Herring at 17:10:54 04/06/13 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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