Like another reply suggests, the one on the right is protruding enough to weld to. That being the case, no more than it is sticking out, it would be easier to weld a washer to it first, and then a nut to the washer. Apply a penetrant of some type to it as it cools and once completely cool it will usually back out.
For the one broken off below the surface, what I do to find center is to use a transfer type center punch where the shank is the same size as the bolt hole. Even on a shallow hole it's not that hard to get one the right size close enough to center to work. If you don't have one of those punches, a standard center punch and a good eye will work just as good. The main thing is start with something like a 1/8 bit to insure it stays in the punch mark, and then increase in size from there.
Personally if the piece doesn't come out with a hole and a easy out, I'll use a small carbide burr to eat away the material of the piece until I can see the tops of the threads. Once I see the threads I'll use a punch I ground special to pick the remainder out. Hope yours doesn't get to this point because it's a royal PITA to do this way. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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