if he is using wide rows i.e. 48 inch best one row tractor for the job is a super A or similar offset one row farmall,2 row super c or mt jd for 40 inch rows or less,i've used both front and rear mount ,i prefer the rear mount for larger units ,rear mounts aren't as hard to use as some make like,cultivating is about a lost art, if done right on a TIMELY basis it works if not then it's a hoe or a weedy crop,never will forget what my wife and SIL told a man who had hired them to hoe his tobacco,they told him if he wanted the field hoed that he better get there daddy to come and plow it, because who ever had just done it only worked the middles,little while latter i saw my DIL in the field ahead of them,he use to make my MIL upset asking her to walk behind him an uncover any hills he covered up, his reply was i'd rather cover up a hill or two doing it right instead of flat weeding a field,times have changed i've seen the time that i kept 40 acres of tobacco cultivated with 1 140 farmall
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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