I put one on a Troy-Bilt Horse rototiller that my neighbor gave me, to replace the B&S flathead that had blown the connecting rod out the side of the crankcase. Except for needing to buy some metric fasteners, it bolted right up and has worked just fine for two years. It always has started right up and seems to have plenty of power for the formerly 8 horsepower tiller. How long will it last? I don"t know, but for about a third of the price of an OHV B&S, I"ll sure try it.
On the tiller, the engine operates at an angle rather than being level. I had to disconnect the low oil shutdown switch to compensate for this and I run the unit with much more oil in the crankcase than it was probably designed for, to make sure there is plenty of oil around the crank when it needs to dip.
Some years ago, I bought a replacement 10 horsepower Tecumseh for another tiller. What a piece of junk! I could never get it to run right. The Harbor Freight engine is immensely better, in my opinion, and a heck of a good buy for that price. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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