Stranded copper wire (improved flexibility and vibration resistance) of sufficient ampacity (like 12 Gauge if thats what you have) is okay to use and, of course, any splices need to be inside a junction box in an accessbile location. If you use a metallic box (covered, and use romex clamps or other appropriate entrance and exit), be sure to also ground the box itself to the equipment GroundING Conductor (the bare or green wire). They make those short copper ground jumper wires with the green grounding screw attached that works to ground the boxes. Or use a blue plastic box no grounding required.
I agree with the posts below, when using wire nuts on sold wire a few good tight twists of the still insulated portions of the wire just outside the nuts better secures the wires inside. I like the heavier solid plastic wire nuts versus the thinner flexible type in locations where strength is important, if they are tightened down and the wires well twisted outside the nut, that makes for a secure connection.
GFCI is required for outdoor locations which could be a GFCI outlet itself or if its fed by a GFCI upstream or a GFCI breaker etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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