The trouble with 100 HP tractors is when used for haying and not puched hard at all, they wet stack like crazy. I like using our Oliver 1855 which puts out 105 PTO HP to cut hay, and it's got a little wet stracking going on.
It's getting to be time to chop corn so I'll be able to burn it out now, as well as when plowing, but if it weren't for that it'd constantly be wet stacking and smoking worse than normal. If only haying, I'd need some big equipment, or drop a size in tractor. We can also cut hay with our Massey 285, but if cutting during the day thew canopy on the 18 is nice, as well as the extra 4,000 lbs the 18 has pulling around the 14' hydro-swing. On a corner, it'll push our 10,000 lb 285 around in the right conditions.
Our 285 on the other hand, is a great haying tractor. Plenty of HP for cutting, can gear up and throttle down for raking, and plenty of weight and power for pulling the square baler or pretty much any round baler should we borrow or rent one.
Donovan from Wisconsin
This post was edited by Don-Wi at 04:22:32 09/05/12.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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