Since youre now at Neg ground, if its not already that way, Id try wiring the coils + to the switched ignition voltage source (switch, ballast etc) and the - to the distributor.
Coils may be labeled "12 volts" or "12 volts NOT for use with external ballast" and that means just what it says, you use 12 volts on it with no external ballast. If a coil is labeled "12 volts for use with (or requires) ballast resistor" again it means just what it says, use a ballast or it will overheat.
Despite what most lay persons and farmer Billy Bob and his beer guzzling know it all brother in law think, most typical old 12 volt tractor coils 1940's to 60's vintage DONT REALLY HAVE A STAND ALONE DISCRETE RESISTOR HIDDEN AWAY INSIDE THE CAN, their LV primary winding resistance in the neighborhood of 2.5 to under 4 ohms (many around 3 ohms) is derived by how much wire is used and/or the resistivity of the wire. Disect or x ray one and I bet you wont find a stand alone conventional resistor tucked in there somewhere!!!!!!! They did make some real early automotive coils that had a seperation (ringed outside) and a seperate compartment where they indeed did have a resistor, but Ive never seen such on any old tractors (40's to 60's ) and I was a used tractor dealer n saw a ton of old tractors n coils.
PS a "good" spark ought to arc 3/16 of an inch and be bright visible blue NOT faint thin wimpy yellow you can hardly see !!!!!!!!!!
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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