The transaxle is a Peerless one. There where three different models of them. The older ones where an 801-38 and 801-38A. These had a needle bearing that ran on the axle right at the edge of the housing. They would cut a grove in the axle and it would break. The later models where a Peerless model 806. This one had a ball bearing at the edge of the case. This setup lasted better.
If you are getting the axle hubs that the wheel bolts to then they will interchange. The axles are a larger diameter in the ball bearing ones.
As for oil/grease. It is like most of the Peerless transaxles. There is not an external place to check the grease. It is a grease kind of like corn head grease. I have seen some that may have a grease gun fitting on the top of the case. These you can fill externally. You have to be careful to not put too much in as it will make it shift hard for a while.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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