Re: cat d 7

Posted by Billy NY on July 09, 2012 at 14:16:30 from (67.248.100.3):

In Reply to: Re: cat d 7 posted by allenpercheron on July 09, 2012 at 13:31:19:

They are a handy machine on a farm, a little big for some, D6 is probably the best all around farm dozer, little smaller, open station or non R.O.P.S. be darned careful in the woods or around any trees, vibration alone can knock things down.

Some things to know about these that are very important

1.) Make sure the starting engine oil does not get contaminated with gasoline, if that oil thins out from gas, that little 2 cylinder will fail, its splash lube system with 2 deep sumps, keep the oil changed, shut off the fuel to the starting engine once the diesel fires up, I even put a petcock on the bowl of the carb in the drain plug to drain the bowl each time, so there is no chance of less than noticeable amounts of gas leaking down in. Not sure on the Zenith carburetor what causes a leak down if the sediment bowl valve is left on, can happen, overflowed the crank case on one of mine many years back, never forgot that, and check the oil and its condition often. The drain plug on these starting engines are a pain to get to, you can carefully siphon it out if you take the inspection cover off above the crank case, DO NOT allow any contaminants in, dirt, dust, and or lint from rags or papertowels, hose the track off and nearby areas, or make up a long reaching tool to get to the plug, one of mine has some odd ball thing under there so I have to take the side inspection cover off for now. Being a splash lube sump, they called for non detergent oil to settle contaminants out into the sump, not sure if that can be sourced, but modern oil will work fine, just keep it changed out when needed, these little 2 cylinders will run a long time with basic maintenance, they like lots of fuel and spark.

2.) Starting engine will overheat if run long without the diesel engine spinning, it needs coolant to be circulated through it and that only happens when the diesel is engaged.

3.) Do not overspeed the starting engine, when that diesel fires up, the starting engine pinion should disengage at a certain RPM, if not the spring latches need adjustment, the serviceman's reference book covers this. ALso, when starting, I keep a hand on that throttle linkage to slow it down, you can also choke it to stop it quickly, may not be a problem but something to know if not familiar with these old D7's, very easy to screw up a starting engine if you do not pay attention.

4.) Grease fittings, there are tons of of them on this tractor, one of the most important and perhaps overlooked is the dry type clutch pilot bearing (yours should be a dry type if a 1948 model, they were not standard until the last few years the 3T was built) Use an appropriate grease that will not fling out, don't over apply either, but make sure that pilot bearing is kept lubed, if it dries out and that bearing fails you will be pulling that cluttch, replacing that bearing and those thick black woven drive links that attach it to the main flywheel. The other thing is to remember to leave the clutch engaged if running and stationary for any length of time, less wear on the pilot bearing and I believe the transmission interlock device if working properly will not allow it into gear, a lot of old timers would say the same thing, just saves you wear.

5.) Final drives, it may be a good idea to check the pre-load on the dead axle bearing, you can use a large pry bar to see if the sprockets are loose on the dead axle, you do not want to run them like this, if you do, you will be sourcing specialty tools to pull the sprockets and repair the dead axle,bearings, gears etc., sometimes checking them can prevent a serious problem, not an expert on finals, but know what to look for, you can run a magnet in the housing, into the lube to see if any metal flakes, pieces or what have you are present, indicating a bearing or other failure. Bellows seals on these most likely leak, if you take the tractor into water or mud, what leaks out can also get in, you do not want sediment laden water or mud in those housings, or the above will apply.

These are well built and designed tractors of that era, still lots of them out there too, but like mentioned above, some things to know about them.

You said they did some rebuilding on the tracks, be a good idea to see where you stand on that by measuring the components, check to see if the idler adjuster still has room for adjustment or not, if not and the track chains are loose, beyond tolerance, be darned careful in muck and or taking tight turns, I do know what its like to put a track back on one of these, big and heavy, same if you get one of these stuck.

Not to lecture, maybe you know about these things, but in case you did not.... best of luck with this tractor !!!!

Replies:

• Re: cat d 7 allen percheronfarm 20:41:41 07/12/12 (0)

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