If it ONLY runs when the starter pedal is depressed, its NOT getting coil voltage via the ignition switches IGN output via any resistor (even if shorted around) then to the coil. If you turn the ign switch ON,,,,,,THERE MUST BE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL (starter engaged or not) and if not,,,,,,,,again theres no voltage at the switches IGN output or a break/open in the circuit from there to the coil via the ballast or its shunt by pass. A simple test lamp will show where voltage is or is not when the switch is ON and again if theres none at the coil when ON she can only run when the starter is engaged.
If the ballast were by passed and its still a 6 volt stock coil (i.e. wasnt changed to a 12 volt coil) the coil will overheat and the points burn up quickly. If it was changed to a 12 volt coil and the resistor was shorted around it will start n run and the coil wont overheat butttttttttt it should still have coil voltage with switch ON
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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