Re: Chain saw chain sharpening

Posted by Billy NY on February 08, 2012 at 17:56:11 from (67.248.100.3):

In Reply to: Chain saw chain sharpening posted by barnE on February 08, 2012 at 16:13:09:

I do mine very effectively with a Stihl clamp on bar guide, it cost me $100 in '02 I think, there are similar ones out there for less. This one is silver colored and aluminum, stihl has or had another with their product color, one was for the bench, other for the field.

Saw shop near me is fine, its $8, but I suspect the machine takes a little more metal off, this is a professionally equipped shop, been around 40 + years, and the guy who sharpens the chains is my neighbor, who used to own it with his father, been at it a long time, so I think its as good as it gets if one wants to have chains sharpened.

The guide I mentioned above is in my opinion a must have. I set up an old tool box, (free on side of road, just perfect for the woods, getting knocked around etc.) I keep my stihl file set, the $20 one in a velcro strap orange pouch, with other necessary tools, 2 cycle oil, jorgensen bar type clamp etc. This tool box goes with the saw whenever I'm in the woods or field. I'm pretty good about keeping the chain out of the dirt, bottoming out in logs and avoiding fence, staples, nails etc. in hedgerow trees, but it happens you hit something, put on the spare chain or what have you, however if I need one sharpened accurately and now, this guide is indispensable plain and simple.

Take your saw, clamp to a table, tail gate or whatever you may have nearby or in the shop, work bench what have you. Set the guide and set the file to 30 degrees, adjust your height and observe how the file engages the cutter, there is also a chain stop and a guide on each side to hold the chain true. If just dull from wood only, only takes 3 passes + or - each cutter, if you hit metal or something that distorts or mangles the cutting edge on the cutter, then that is where taking it to the shop is cost effective, but I can still straighten out a chain that has been beat up, not properly aligned when sharpened, just takes longer ( my friend used to use a dremel, and they were always off and it took time to straighten, he noticed how much better it performed ) Need to be accurate, or I think so. Technically, you are supposed to keep each cutter the same size, so if one gets really dulled or blunt, it may take many passes to true it up, it could be shorter than the rest. I can't really comment on that like a pro or heavily experienced person dealing with chains, most of my chains wear evenly, but I've have cutters vary and no real problems, eventually when you get to the max sharpen line on the cutter, where the chain is now worn out, it may chatter when cutting or not cut straight, thats when I replace them, more so if some of the cutters are way shorter, you can easily tell something is not right with a chain, just replace it.

Typically, mine dull from wood, I set up the guide, mark one cutter with yellow paint marker so I know where I started, file each cutter about 3x, always keep the count the same, switch sides, and in 15 minutes, I have an accurately sharpened chain that cuts smooth, straight and lasts. I can't say the exact chain type I have, it has rakers, ( safety to prevent kick back, unlike a full chisel, skip or what you call it ). I make sure to keep those rakers well below the cutting edge of the cutters, if you don't they do not cut aggressive enough, good to start out with til you get the feel for a saw, kick back if any. It seems you need to have the thing throttled right up and jam the bar tip into something for that to happen, but the warnings are all over the owners manuals for the saw, never forget the potential of kickback, don't use defective or damaged chains. I use a flat file, 5x each when I take those rakers down, chain cuts nice, straight and will leave ribbons of wood vs chips sometimes, but always throws a nice chip and cuts very effectively.

I like to be able to do my own, because I do not want to depend on someone or have a pile of chains, so I mostly use one, cut several cords a year, sharpen it when I like and get excellent results. I also like the fact that I take a close look at the chain when sharpening it, taking note of any defects, damage or unsafe conditions, don't want to break one and have it snap back or something. This also allows you to closely observe each cutter and check your work, check the file engagement to the cutter and so on. Takes me 15 minutes to do a 20" chain.

In addition, there is nothing more annoying than a dull chain, and I am always surprised when I actually dull one just from wood, I could not believe how long a new Oregon chain lasted through all the fields of downed hardwood trees from an ice storm I cleared for a farmer spring of '09, I dodged all the old hedge row associated metal, never hit the dirt or rocks, seems an accurately sharpened chain performs best and lasts longer.

There are plenty of people with much more knowledge and experience, and safety etiquette which is the utmost important thing to consider when using a chainsaw, they will tear into flesh like nothing.

Replies:

Add a Reply Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video URL: Advanced Posting Options Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.   Advanced Posting Tools   Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List  Return to Post

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]