I've never done it, but I thought I would have to one time. Looked like pulling the platform was step one. It's actually my grandpa's D4, and my cousins was using it when the clutch started slipping. He said there wasn't any adjustment left (and I trusted him to some extend; he's a decent wrench). Anyway, talked to an old experianced mechanic wo suggested adjusting the clutch; it takes a lot of hours to really wear one out. (as other poster noted, cover with 8 or 12 bolts between your feet). So, moral of the story, double/tripled check the adjustmant first. I was slow and it only took me a couple hours. Also, I found a 2x2 board about a foot or 18" long was handy to use like a giant soft punch to rotate the big three finger adjustment device after loosening the lock nut.
That reminds me of a story my grandpa told me about a neighbor who got tired of adjusting his clutch all the time (dont recall the tractor). He thought he'd be smart and over tighten it a bit so he could go longer between adjustments. Next thing he knew, he had to split it to fix the clutch. 2nd moral; don't try to cheat and over tighten....
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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