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Re: OT : scorpion snowmobile


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Posted by Fritz Maurer on December 26, 2011 at 17:50:16 from (216.137.136.168):

In Reply to: OT : scorpion snowmobile posted by Cihcm on December 26, 2011 at 14:38:56:

First, make sure the fuel can get out of the tank. An '81 Anything will have crud in the tank. Check for an in-tank filter. If you have fuel flow from the tank, check the fuel pump if it's a float-type carb, or the carb filter if it's a diaphragm carb. For the float carb, the fuel pump will be in a remote location with a air line attached to the crankcase, to make it operate. Get a new piece of fuel line long enough to reach from the pump to your mouth, and alternately suck and blow into this tube, and it will pump fuel if the pump is operational. (Disconnect hose from carb first). If it does not work, disconnect the test hose from the atmospheric side of the pump and attach it to the pump inlet. You should be able to blow through the pump but not suck backwards. If you can go both ways the check valves are dirty or defective. If you can't go either way, it's plugged up. Find out what kind of pump it is and order a kit. You might consider a new Mikuni pump, a reliable unit and parts are readily available. Diaphragm carburetor:(pumps built in) Old round body Tillotson will have a screen under a plastic cover to which the fuel line attaches. Remove center screw to remove cover, and pull the screen out. Some large square bodied Walbro carbs had no internal filter, but an in-line type. For maximum reliability, I recommend you completely dismantle any diaphragm carb for inspection, and they work so much better when no shortcuts are taken. Replace all fuel lines in system, including air line if you have a remote fuel pump. Take your fuel tank off and make sure it's spotless. Make there is no blockage in the nipple for the air line (remote pump).you should feel the air rush out when the engine is cranked. Regarding crankshaft seals, they have nothing to do with pumping the fuel. However, they should be replaced if defective because they'll suck air from the outside, leaning the mixture and eventually smoking the engine. If, when you get it running, you can adjust it for a smooth idle, they're probably okay. Inspect the plugs, they say a lot about the mixture. A NGK B9HS is a good plug to run, pre-mix Bel-Ray MC-1+ @ 50:1, from there on you can read the plug colors for carb adjustments.


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