Posted by Fritz Maurer on November 14, 2011 at 20:15:22 from (216.137.136.168):
Pulled the motor a year ago to change rear main seal. Did it as per the factory shop manual, the non-frame-split method. That turned out to be a disaster because the special holding tool screwed into the powershift broke, allowing the input shaft to come forward with the motor. The motor will only come forward about an inch, then you have to start hoisting sharply because the oil pan hangs below the frame. I'm sure that's why the tool broke, the bind imposed on the input shaft wouldn't allow the splines to slide free of the clutch. What did I do wrong? I need to do this again, and I'm strongly considering separating the frame this time. Out of curiosity, is this White's own motor or somebody else's? The owner doesn't know either. Thanks, Fritz
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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