Posted by kessol on June 11, 2011 at 01:34:50 from (75.120.228.132):
Hello all, I am new to these boards, but have been utilizing the "Search" feature for the last few weeks. The replies I have read enabled me to use all the answers I needed to have my tractor running in good mechanical condition.
A little history first, I purchased my house with 2 acres about 5 years ago. While moving in and walking the property, I saw a tractor parked under a lean-to against the carport. So I called the owner and promptly agreed to buy the tractor for $1000. After a little research, I discovered that I was the proud owner of a 1958 Ford 641 Workmaster.
It would not start and there was no telling when the last maintenance had been done, so I put in new points, wires, plugs, battery, dist cap and rotor, and rebuilt the carb, With fingers crossed, I hit the start button and it ran. A few minor adjustments and I was driving around the yard.
Used the "new" tractor to spread gravel on the drive, dig out a few holes to remove metal drums, and bush hog the encroaching property line overgrowth.
I thought I knew what I was doing, but then the "story I will never live down" occurred. There was a hump in my yard, so I thought I would use the box blade to smooth it out. The previous owners had left the box blade sitting on the top of a steep hill that goes down to a storm water gulley. So I back up to the box blade, turn off the tractor, and climb down to attach it. As I reach up the undo a pin.....the tractor starts to move.
It is headed straight into the gulley. So what is the first thing a city-raised man thinks to do...."Must stop the tractor!!" Sp I chase after it, run on the clutch side first...that won't stop it. Run around to the brake side...now it is going to fast...I'm behind it. What to do? Jump up onto the seat...nope, that will kill me possibly. About this time the tractor slams into a large privet shrub at the gulley, and due to the left wheel hitting first, it spins to the right. I was standing directly behind the PTO area.......When the rear end swung around and the left rear tire hit me from shin up to shoulder. I got launched a good 15 feet.
I got up called for help then got my chainsaw and began cutting all the privet from around my tractor. After this I and my family had dinner, THEN we thought I might need to go get x-rays. After a couple hours of explaining to the laughing nurses "how" I had hurt my shoulder, the doctor let me know that I had broken my shoulder.
So one broken shoulder, six weeks in a specialized sling, and six months of physical therapy had taught me an important lesson...... A tractor will bite the hand that maintains it, if you are not careful or forget to engage your brain.
Anyway flash forward 4 years, getting married, work, family have all put tractor work on the back burner, but I'm ready to get some work done around my place. Time to get the tractor running properly again.
I charge the battery, hook it up add gas to the tank, and after jiggling the key so I see the charge light on the dash, and wiggle the wires on the solenoid, it turns over....but won't crank. No spark...but wait no gas either...ugh. So I go the other route, the wiring is fried, the key ignition has to have a exact spot the connect. This is crazy. It is time for new parts.
I order wiring harness, key switch, solenoid, voltage regulator, terminal block, all new gauges, thermostat, and a Proof-meter cable. Parts come in and I start installing them, this went well and was pretty easy. I ran new wiring for all the lights with a new switch. Any questions I had were quickly answered by a search in the YT archives.
So I try to crank it once more, still no spark. I go back to the archives again. I learn how to test each point in the starting circuit with my volt meter, and also about a little copper strip in the distributor. I take the dist apart and sure enough the strip is broken. I made another strip, put everything back together to try again...no spark. No I'm getting frustrated.
I return to the YT archives for more research, learned how to use a volt meter to test inside the distributor and about a little insulator that keeps the pass through bolt from grounding out. Tested everything with my meter, it was a bad insulator. Cut one out of a piece of a antifreeze coolant jug, good thickness that should work. Put it all together and it fires up on the first try.
Next are the brakes, left one sticks, and who knows how long they have been in use. Get the wheels and drums off, start removing springs but how do you get the anchor pins out? Back to YT archives. Heat, ATF fluid, hammer...many choices which I try but fail with. Then I went down to Advance Auto and got a ball joint press loaner tool, pushed out the anchor pins in about 5-10 minutes. Brakes back together and set correctly. I got the left brake pedal to not stick by working on the cam that passes under the transmission, removed it enough to get the gunk out and put some grease back in. Pedals are now level and working.
I would like to thank all the posters who have replied to questions asked on these forums. soundguy, Bruce (VA), JMOR, old, and many others that I can't look up at the moment. You have helped me figure out issues and get my tractor back into service. Thank you for sharing you knowledge, and being patient with those of us who are learning.
And now what everybody likes to see....pics:
This post was edited by kessol at 22:51:44 06/11/11.
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