Unless you plan to also convert over to an electronic ignition switch, as long as you"re using original points and condensor system, I doubt you will notice much if any improvement using a so called HV coil, Id stay with a stock. The so called HV coil does NOT fire at any higher voltage if the compression and plug gap remain unchanged, its only that it has the ability/capacity to do so if compression is raised and/or the plug gap is increased. The stock coil will achieve sufficient voltage to arc jump a gap of 0.020 (and less) to 0.040 (and likely more) unless you raise the compression dramatically, and a gap of 0.020 to 0.030 is in the range of where youre likely at anyway.
Id look at the compression on that weak cylinder and/or the valves and their lash before I tried a whole lot of ignition improvements. If a weak cylinder is low on compression or burning excess oil (rings or valve guides/seals etc.) a hotter ignition wont cure that, it will just increase the time before the plug eventually fouls out.
The ignition is more efficient if the coil is at the correct polarity to match the tractor battery, i.e. for a Pos ground the coils + goes to distributor while for a neg ground the coils - goes to distributor, you may wanna check that
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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