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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: Please help, 1st time painter


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Posted by Rod (NH) on August 26, 2005 at 17:59:29 from (64.140.200.138):

In Reply to: Re: Please help, 1st time painter posted by Brad in WI on August 25, 2005 at 23:37:47:

The OMNI MAE would surely be OK since it's covered on the tech sheet. But I also believe that the 2150 would go on the 170 w/o a problem. I'd have no problem doing it myself - I'm that confident of it. Before you decide, check out the issues in prior recent threads below (pg 2) on color shade between the 2150 and the OMNI 71310, if that's important for you.

If you want to avoid a surfacer product and minimize sandscratches at the same time, I'd recommend a final machine-sand with something like 320 grit prior to applying the 170. That's a little finer than what the 170 tech sheet calls for but I have done it successfully w/o having any adhesion problems. If your sheetmetal is in good shape and you don't need to do any sanding (e.g. you're using a chemical stripper to remove any old paint) and it's rust free, you can even use a Scotch-Brite hand pad to scuff the clean metal, remove any sheen and get at least some tooth for the 170 to adhere to. Epoxies are great anyway but having a little tooth always helps. If there is any hint of light rusting on unsanded sheetmetal, you should do a phosphoric acid cleaning/conditioning metal treatment using products like PPG DX579/DX520. A Scotch-Brite pad is used with these products also so you'd get rid of the rust (light only), etch the metal and provide some tooth at the same time.

As CNKS says, dents, pitting etc, require additional steps to eliminate or at least minimize their appearance afterwards. At some point, you really do get diminishing returns for your effort. Unless you are a real stickler for detail, I'm sure you will do just fine with the plan you have. I think your biggest problem will be to get a little spray time under your belt to build up your confidence level. That means doing some practice painting.


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