The cultivators, if not excessively worn at the pivot points, are worth at least $300 in this area, so that's a plus. The left side front pivot clamp (at the square that goes into the front bolster) tends to bend or break (look for twist or welds), but the "new and improved" HD replacement is probably still available (got mine as of 2 years ago). Cost about $130.
Does it have rear wheel weights? That's a plus. Worth about $150 (and worth every penny in traction).
Steering has been mentioned, but check the set bolts on the spindles for play - if they've been 'chucking' for a while, the spindles may need to be replaced. Check the steering sector shaft that it doesn't float (up and down) as the steering wheel is turned - the 'keeper' on top of the shaft may be broken - it's not the end of the world, but it makes for a lot of slop. Check the front axle at the pivot for welds - it's a known 'weak spot'. Check the parking brake pawl (lever on the front far right of the operator platform) that it isn't overly worn as to 'jump out', and check pedals for wobble (worn bushings); some wear is to be expected, but if they're really floppy, it's another few hundred in repairs. Check the governor shaft where the throttle lever rod connects (right side of the engine) for excessive play. If bad, it will need to be bored and bushed at a machine shop and the shaft replaced. Check the distributor shaft for excessive side play - if the shaft is flopping, the points won't be working right and it won't run as well as it should.
Does the charging system work? Generators and regulators are notorious for needing maintenance, and according to the folks here, good replacement regulators seem to be getting hard to find.
Does the touch control 'hunt' (bounce) under load, or leak badly? If so, it will need a rebuild - the kit is about $200 from Case/IH.
Expect seals to leak. As long as the drip rate isn't too bad and fluids levels are adequate, I wouldn't worry. You can fix them at your leisure (and budget). Check wheel bearings as above.
Even if it has half of the issues mentioned, it's all fixable, and FWIW, these tractors are amazingly versatile and durable. I paid $1600 for mine with an IH front blade, a Worksaver 3pt conversion, a generic 4' back blade, and a heap o' problems not immediately visible to my ignorance at the time. I paid about $700 too much, and have already spent ~$600 in repairs (with a lot more to go), but I wouldn't trade it for anything but a better SA. I've since picked up a #193 1 bottom plow (great for opening a field and picking rocks after each pass), #22 sickle mower (cuts my hay), #144T cultivators, and have most of the parts for a seeder. I use it with a 5' finish mower for the lawn, and it will power a 5' brush hog through 3' weeds (on the level, not so good on 5' canary grass going up hill), or a small baler (IH 46 or JD 14T). I often use a 3pt bale fork with it to gather firewood (half cord+ at a time in a box) and move things, and once carried over 1600# pallet of seed on it (short distance, very slow - don't try this at home, kids).
Love this little tractor. I suspect that if you get yours, you will too.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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