Brazing works basically like soldering, if you've ever soldered electrical stuff. You use an oxy/acetylene torch and a carburizing flame. You'll be heating the iron to a low red heat and using a brass alloy filler rod. You're working a molten puddle of the alloy along the crack, kind of like arc welding only much slower. Unlike the arc welding though you are not melting the parent material. The flux does the final cleaning so the filler material can bond to the parent material.
Obviously it will be necessary to have the case upside down to do a good job. If the tractor is still broken at present time, then go ahead and tear down the whole thing and clean it out. I would pull axle housings and everything.
You'll need to clean the area of paint and grease for at least 3 inches either side of the crack. I would take an angle grinder and "dust off" the casting slightly. Once you can see how far the crack goes, drill out the ends with a 1/4" bit to help stop the crack from propagating. You'll fill the hole when you braze. Then "V" out the crack a little bit to maximize the contact area of the parent material around the crack. Use brake cleaner and clean the heck out of the area on both sides. Cast iron is porous and you'll want it as oil free as possible.
I would round up some kind of burner, like from a turkey fryer or old bathroom stove or something and get it going under the case when ready to braze. This is just to take the chill out of the whole casting. About like touching a car on a hot summer day. Then I would do the actual brazing.
There's bound to be some you-tube videos of people brazing. Watch some of those and do some google searching. Older welding and farm maintenance type books usually had sections on brazing. Hit the local library and see what you can find.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Ford N-Series Transmission/Hydraulic Fluid - The Full Story - by Llamas. The transmission fluid in an “N”:-series tractor lubricates the transmission, differential, rear wheel bearings, PTO and hydraulic pump drive, and it also cats as the working fluid for the hydraulic lift. In 9N/2N models, it also lubricates the steering sector and shaft system. The owner’s manual for the 9N and 2N models specified the use of only two fluids. They were STRAIGHT MINERAL OIL SAE 90 (above freezing) and
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
