The spark that is important is the one at the spark plugs, not the spark at the points. The spark at the points should be pretty easily seen, but not checked for color. If the battery is charged well, and you looked at the point spark with your eyes parallel to the gap, you would likely see a repeated nice small spark. Heating of the coil is normal. The Duty Cycle (time off and time on) of the coil is much less than 50% due to the short time the points are closed compared to the time they are open on each revolution. This means the coil is not running all the time normally. thus when turned on and not running it is on full time. I am going to suggest that you use a volt meter to check the voltage going into the coil from the switch when cranking. If it is below 9 volts, it will be tough to start. Do this by disconnecting the coil to distributor wire from the cap,and grounding it to the engine. Then, with a volt meter reading the voltage at the supply side of the coil, crank it and read the volts. A bad ignition switch, or connections or wires will cause the low volts. Another cause is small and or corroded battery cables, also making voltage loss. The reason the tractor poped is because the coil put out enough voltage to jump from the center terminal of the cap, to a plug terminal, and that plug happened to be in a cylinder with fuel and air. Don't check the spark at the points and don't let the high voltage coil wire dangle while checking. Holding the coil wire 1/4" away from the block (cloths pins work well) is best. jim
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