Re: H clutch

Posted by FBH44 on April 27, 2014 at 20:29:47 from (64.85.217.55):

In Reply to: H clutch posted by PaulGinmn on April 27, 2014 at 17:33:41:

Here"s notes I made to myself after I removed and replaced my "H" clutch.
 Remove the belly pump. Lower it down with pipe in the bottom hole and two helpers.
 Lay sideways, head under the left-side toolbox, with trouble light, it’s easier, stuff doesn’t drop into your eyes.
 Remove the four taper bolts / eight rubber-backed washers holding the shaft coupler together. May have to press them / tap them to get them out. They’re expensive, save them.
 Can use a small pipe wrench to rotate the drive shaft.
 Remove the 4-hole-bent-coupler thing. NOTE WHICH WAY IT FACES, AND REINSERT A TAPER BOLT WITH RUBBER_BACKED WASHERS ON EACH SIDE TO HELP YOU REMEMBER.
 Remove the big center-bolt / lock-washer / thick-washer holding the transmission coupler onto the transmission shaft. When this bolt gets loose, just put a wrench on it and rotate the coupler around and around. This bolt WILL self-unthread and remove itself, pivot out and come out.
 Do not try to remove the transmission coupler; I have ground off enough metal to make the rest of this procedure work.
 Remove, from the forward side, way up inside, the two big bolts on the forward side holding the aluminum Y-yoke shaft holder. I think it’s 5/8”, so get them loose and then use the 5/8” ratchet-end / open-end wrench. Remove those bolts, but leave the Y-yoke on the shaft.
 NOTE: Hanging on the drive shaft now will be the throw-out bearing grease-fitting carrier, the throw-out bearing, the Y-yoke, maybe some other stuff. Leave all of it, this will all slide right out shortly as an assembly with the shaft.
 From the outside left side of tractor, remove cotter pin and pin from the clutch rod shaft end.
 Lower the end of the shaft rod.
 CAREFULL!!! You’re about to drop two one-of-a-kind thick washers.
 Now back inside, reach way up with a long ½”-drive socket extension and socket, and slightly loosen the two clamp-bolts pressing the red forked throw-out bearing yoke holder together.
 CAREFULL!!!!!! Remove each bolt, along with it’s lock washer and along with it’s thick washer that is sitting inside the holder, in the slot, fitted into the groove in the clutch release side-to-side shaft. These clamp-bolts go THROUGH these thick washers.
 Get those clamp-bolts out, along with their lock washers, catch the thick washers, [might use a magnet to catch them…] and slide the clutch release shaft out of the left side, sideways.
 From inside, lift up a little and remove the two-finger red forked bearing release holder.
 The 2’-long drive shaft, along with the throughout bearing, holder, Y-yoke etc. WILL pivot enough to clear the transmission coupler, the rear end WILL move slightly down, and the whole assembly WILL slide right down and move slightly back and out.
 At this point, the pressure plate and clutch are still inside. The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel.
 ONE BY ONE, remove three of the Grade-8 bolts evenly spaced around the outside of the plate, and reinsert each into the three inner holes so the pressure plate is self-compressed.
 Remove the other 3 bolts around the outside of the pressure plate.
 Pressure plate is now loose. She’s a little heavy.
 Reach up, pivot the pressure plate top backwards and get ‘er out.
 Get the clutch plate out.
 NOTE!!!!! Clutch plate has a 45°-shaped flinger mounted on the FORWARD side of the plate.

Might have forgot a few steps, but it’s straightforward.
 Put it all back in reverse sequence, very easy.
 Put in the clutch plate. The 45° grease-flinger faces forwards.
 Put in the pressure plate.
 Stick the drive shaft back up into place, with all the stuff hanging on it. DO NOT tighten bolts yet.
 The end of the drive shaft sometimes does not want to go back inside the pilot bearing hole; work it, it will go. There WILL be enough clearance to get the big bolt / lock washer /thick washer back inside the transmission coupler. Just have to work the shaft, till it slides forward enough. It WILL go.
 Put everything back, WITH BOLTS LOOSE. DO NOT tighten bolts yet.
 PUT EVERYTHING IN, INSTALL THE TAPER BOLTS / RUBBER WASHERS / LOCK WSHERS AND THE COUPLER, AND TIGHTEN THE TAPER BOLTS . FIRST .. THAT ALIGNS THE SHAFT UP WITH EVERYTHING. THEN TIGHTEN UP EVERYTHING ELSE.
 Rotate the engine 120° each time, adjust the 3 pressure plate fingers so there’s 3/16” clearance to the throw-out bearing, as your finger lightly presses the plate finger forwards, away from the throw-out bearing, with the home-made 3/16” copper gage tool, and so there’s 1½” free clutch pedal travel.

Replies:

• Re: H clutch PaulGinMn 14:28:22 04/30/14 (0)

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