Mark-Mi said: (quoted from post at 04:46:19 12/16/13) I have often thought about how to time my H with a timing light. I will be trying this.
Thank you. Mark
You are welcome. Actually much of the info in my long post was pilfered from the archives of posts by Pete23 and Owen Aaland. All I did was take lots of their tidbits of info contained in numerous individual posts. With those tidbits of info then I had enough info to backwards create the mathematical equation as I had no way to accurately measure that pulley.
Personally, I do not like a static timing procedure. I want to set it with engine running at WOT as that is where everything needs to be correct on a working tractor that is going to be worked hard.
Most stock pistons will require the 40 degree advance calculation. However if you have firecrater or some other dome pistions then the timing needs to be adjusted more conservatively to keep from melting things on a worker. Usually those kits came with a recommendation on what to set the timing at and some kits even came with different springs to put in the disributor to alter the advance curve.
I always check to see if the advance is working by having someone throttle it down while I watch with the timing light and then throttle it back up. Reallt though I only worry about having the timing set properly at WOT for the pistons being used.
Much less chance you will destroy anything if you use a timing light and do everything properly compared to how it could be all wrong if you use the static procedure outlined in the books and have high dome pistons with stock springs in the distributor. If you follow static procedure you will end up with 40 degrees of timing on a non-stock engine that should have only 22 degrees.
My outlined method sets the timing with it full advanced so your are covering your worst case scenario.
This post was edited by rankrank1 at 20:26:32 12/15/13 3 times.
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