Re: New to me F12

Posted by Dave Allgire on November 25, 2013 at 17:31:45 from (64.134.163.32):

In Reply to: Re: New to me F12 posted by bmagee on November 24, 2013 at 17:13:58:

This may be a little long winded but, here goes. From what I can gather you have it running. That's a plus! Now as others have said, you need to make sure the timing of the mag is correct, the point settings are correct. Getting a manual is a step in the right direction. So first things first. Pull the #1 spark plug. As you slowly crank the engine over, hold your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel pressure on your thumb that means that #1 is coming up on the compression stroke. At this point slow down on how fast you are cranking over the engine and look in the "window" on the left side of the bell housing. When you see the line for #1 and #4 TDC appear in the window (approximately centered in the window) stop cranking. Remove the distributor cap and look at the position of the pointer on the distributor plate. It should be pointing at the 2:00 o"clock position. If it is not, it means the mag is out of time. Remove the four mounting bolts and remove the mag. Lay it on its side and rotate the drive until the pointer is pointing at 2:00 o"clock. What this does is "unlock" the impulse coupling that is used when the engine is running. Without disturbing this setting set the mag back on its mount close to where its final resting place will be. Recheck the position of the pointer. If the mag coupling doesn"t line up with the main drive of the engine, remove the two small bolts and rotate that plate to MATCH the mag. Reinstall the bolts, they are exactly 180 degrees apart. Slide the mag into position. You may have to adjust this later, but it is a good starting point. Clean and set the points at .013" on the high point of the cam, you can do this really easy before you reinstall the mag. Assuming the plug wires have not been crossed the tractor should start and run. The mag control rod, as you are setting on the tractor, turned to the far left position is the grounding position. That is your "kill switch". When that rod is turned to the far right is the full "run" position. To start the tractor, the arm is turned to the full right position, then backed off until it is approximately vertical. That retards the advance to aid in starting. After two to three pulls of the crank, it should start. Immediately move the arm to the far right position or "run. You should notice a difference in the sound of the engine when you do this. Depending on the outside air temperature, you may have to use the choke for the first two pulls, then take it off. If you leave the choke on for more than this, you will flood it and that requires a lot more cranking. Also check the gap of the plugs. Hope this helps. Again sorry for the long post.

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