Not to sure about things. Is that the replacement ring gear in the picture or the old one? Axle housings can stay on but the axles need moved part way out of the housings. At least past the bull gear splines. Then the bull gears need moved to let the differential bearing support housings come out each side. May have to remove the PTO to get the bull gear out. Never tried to move a bull gear with the pto in, so can't say for sure. Don't think so though. Leave the bull gears out of the way until the differential is shimed where you want. You can try to get by with just the right axle and bull gear moved. But if the other side ends up needing shims added or subtracted the left axle and bull gear will have to be moved. If you assemble the t/a unit and get a helper or some other support to hold it in the front transmission housing hole it will line the main shaft up okay. Putting the t/a and center housing on may be the best but if you need to add or subtract shims on the main shaft the t/a needs removed. Unless you cut the shims to remove or install. Some have done that. Since you have the original main shaft bearing, bearing housing and shims with the shaft. High % of the time it will be good in another housing. Good Luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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