Well, I went through this two winters ago and it was a major failure. I found a metal retainer from a 450d and used a felt seal. You can't use a rubber seal with the spiral groove from what I have heard. Common sense tells you the groove will tear up the seal. You can't use a felt seal without a spiral or it will leak. That is just common sense.
So I soaked a felt seal in oil and used the metal retainer. All was well for about three hours and now it leaks like a sieve. The retainers appeared to run in the same spot. The crank was smooth from what I could tell. All that and it leaks more than it did with a warped retainer and a 50 year old seal. The only thing a lot of guys say is that it might have spun the felt. Was this because I used the new style retainer with felt??? Maybe
Sorry, no answers in all of this because I haven't had the time and patience to split the tractor again. If you don't mind a hijack, do I have to split an MD with the small clutch to drop the flywheel?
I use a torque table on all bolts that don't have a specified torque in the book. If I remember correctly for a 3/8 NC grade 5 bolt it is 27 ft lbs.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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