Posted by JRSutton on May 27, 2012 at 17:31:59 from (75.130.109.233):
In Reply to: 1947 Super A brakes posted by Norm Curtis on May 27, 2012 at 17:00:57:
Is it really a 1947? Just curious - there were only about 80 of those made.
Either way - it's a big job changing the brakes, but all the steps are pretty easy and straight forward.
You need to pull the final drives off to get to the brakes.
The most important step is blocking the tractor up properly and safely. Before you do anything, take a look at where the pivot pin is on the front axle - and get familiar with why the whole tractor is going to fall over if you take the left rear wheel off. Block accordingly.
But assuming the tractor is secured and rock solid.
Remove the wheel first.
Unlink the brake rods.
Remove the final drive - just unbolt all the bolts that hold it to the transmission, and it should just pull straight out. (the shaft into the transmisison is splined, it's not fastned internally - just slides right out)
You might need to help it out with a rubber mallet, but it shouldn't be too tough.
The final drives are pretty heavy.
I took mine off and put them back on by hand. So it can be done, but if you've got something like an engine hoist available, it'd be the way to go.
Once the final drive is off - it's pretty obvious what needs to be done. The brake band slides right off. The brake drum has one bolt inside with a locking nut on it. Just loosen that and the drum will come off.
While you're in there - look for oil all over the brakes. Very common for the oil seals in the there to leak. Especially the ones on the transmission that the shaft goes through.
That's easy on the left side, but a much bigger job on the right side - the whole axle tube under the seat has to come off to get to the seal. But again - if you're half way there anyways, might be worth being thorough.
Other seals in the final drives should be peplaced while you have it off - in my opinion - but it gets more complicated - don't want to go into that detail here.
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