No, the main shaft will pull back from the motor. Once apart, you have a choice based on the way you work and the space available.
You'll need to support the motor and torque tube in place, then roll the rear end back (jack stand supporting the front of the tranny, all resting on a dolly to allow it to roll -- in the absence of honestagawd splitting stands, a furniture dolly under the jack stand will work, there's not a lot of weight on the front of the tranny when split) with the shaft still attached. Rolling the rear back far enough to pull the shaft completely out is not the best way to go.
Better is to roll the rear (somebody on each tire to keep things as straight as possible), back enough, just the 8-10" to get your wrenches onto the bolts on the flex joint. To replace the seal (and bearing, if needed, as Gene pointed out -- what better time, eh?) you only need to remove the bolts that connect the joint to the tranny. That will reduce the risk to potentially damaging two costly bolts instead of all four, and allow you to roll the rear-end further back to better get at the job.
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Today's Featured Article - Box Plow Blues - by Tom Schwarz. One of the first implements most tractor owners obtain is the box plow. For very little money, this piece of equipment promises to plow and flatten any hill or vale on your ranch road or farm. At least that's what I thought! As simple as a box plow appears, it can be rather challenging to make work correctly. In our sandy soils of Florida, traction is king. You can never have wide enough tires or heavy enough weights to get all the traction you want … unless you own a monster tractor. U
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