We bought a new SM in '54 & pulled a 3x14" # 16 plow behind it until the mid '60s. Weight required will depend on soil type,& plowing depth. WE ran 2 sets of weights on the landside wheel + a dual with cast iron wheel, 6-8 weights on the furrow wheel & fluid in both rear tires. Always plowed 9-10" deep in 2nd gear & once in awhile had to drop to 1st. Our soils are Sable & Ipava loams, both heavy,black soils that tend to be poorly drained. Rear tires were the qvivalent of todays 13.6 x38s
If tire diameter is greater with the 15.5s over the 14.9s I think the 15.5s would hurt your tractor's performance. You'd definetely have to drop a gear. A good friend of mine tells the story of having a SMTA with 13x38 tires & when plowing along with his dad on an M he would outrun his dad. He had 14.9s pput on his SMTA & said his dad would outrun him with the M because he had to drop a gear so traded th 14.9s for a set of 13.6s.
I wouldn't worry too uch about the 15.5s causing problems because of width. I have plowed several thopusand acres with tractors with either 15.5s or 18.4 ties pulling 14" plows & never had a bit problem.
AS far as setting the plow, do pretty much as would said on the coulters, make sure landslides, shins, & shares are good. plow is level side to side & front to back when plowing and drafts in a straight line. We always set our hitch / furrow wheel so that the front bottom cut 2" more than the moleboard width of cut - 16" in your case. That way you didn't have to run the rear tire aginst the furrow sidewall to get a full width of cut. But at the same time don't drive too far to the right & get an undercut with the front bottom. When done the field should look like it was plowed by one big plow. NO ridges or valleys where the front bottom throws against the last bottom of the previous pass.
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