Posted by sflem849 on July 17, 2011 at 18:28:19 from (69.197.84.78):
In Reply to: pepper, again posted by blunted on July 17, 2011 at 17:49:46:
I know my MD took 110#, but that is a different tractor. That is what the IT manual and service manual said so it is pretty set in stone.
I don't want to be a jerk and say you are doing it wrong, but did you torque them from inside out and in steps? Were the bolts/studs clean? If they are parts washer clean I like to take the oil can and lube the threads up with a drop. Just like a dirty bolt, you can't torque/carry a load on an ultra dry bolt. (Janicholson could probably go into engineering speak on that one. I actually heard of a study where they tested ultra dry bolts and ones you touched with your fingers and the fingered ones could carry more load and torque more evenly because of just the oil on your fingers.)
I am not one to reuse head gaskets. It's just not right, but if it was only on for a couple weeks you could probably get away with it. I'm going to test my luck with a head gasket given to me for my WD-9, but that is another story. That was on overnight and the engine was never ran or oiled or coolanted so it didn't get compressed like normal. That and it is a $200 head gasket. Yours should only be around $30.
When you said "they checked the block and the head" did that mean they checked it for cracks or checked it for trueness/straightness? I never really heard of a head that went in that didn't get a hair off just to clean it up.
My head shop said to use copper on any head gasket that has metal on it. If it is metal on both sides, spray both sides. If it is metal on one side spray the metal side. It has worked on my MD so far.
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