Posted by Scotty HOMEy on April 18, 2011 at 21:18:46 from (71.241.219.94):
In Reply to: farmall a rebuild posted by blunted on April 18, 2011 at 19:36:55:
A lot easier to check the motor end with a starter, but since we don't have on e of those . . . We'll assume your valves are set. Having the intake valves off a small amount isn't going to make any difference in the initial stages, it's more important to performance once she's back running. With all the plugs out and the fuel shut off at the tank, have someone spin the crank. You should feel the force of compression when you stuff a finger into each plug hole. With the plugs (ignition off) in it will be harder to spin, and I don't know if you'd be able to feel the vacuum at the carb inlet or not, but that's worth a try, too. With the plugs in to close up the cylinders properly, you should be able to lay your palm up against the carb inlet and feel suction as each intake valves open and the cylinder under it drops. It won't be as strong as the compression you would feel blowing out through the open plug hole. It's also worth a check to make sure the vacuum is tight. This would be the gaskets and fit between the manfold and head, and the carb and manifold. Maske sure iverything is tight there. If you hear a vacuum hiss elsewhere while the motor's being turned with your hand over the carb inlewt, it's that hiss that would need to be tracked down and cured.
If the vacuuum is good, it's going to be fuel supply. Could be as simple as a stuck float, often but not always fixed with a light rap against the bowl with something that won't break it, but may require disassembly. If your bowl has a drain, open it and see if gas flows. Clean carb is of course a must. If that doesn't fix it, it's supply and most likely something plugged. Start with the screen in the elbow at the fuel inlet to the carb and work your way up through each possible choke point to include crud settled in he tank where the fuel drops down into the sediment bowl.
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