First off, it's dollard to donuts that your overfow is just thed result of an intial overfill. If it stays at the new level, you're fine. Other than that, Red Dave is on top of it.
To determine if you have a water pump or not, follow the lower radiator hose back to the block. If it connects to a simple cast double elbow (quite possibly the same casting that the probe for your thermometer threads into), there is no pump. A pump, if you have one, would bolt on in place of that casting and will be obvious by the belt driving it.
As far as the needle moving, it won't much, especially if the probe is in that lower position. Like Red Dave said, even without a pump (the thermosiphon concept), those tractors have wicked efficient radiators and fans. Radiator is oversize for what a motor that size would ordinarily need, and the fan is designed to pull a LOT of air across it. It's not unusual to shut one of them down after working and find the upper tank of the radiator too hot to rest your hand on, but for the bottom tank and hose to be no more than comfortably warm. Now figure placing the probe in that lower casing, the coolest part of the system and you can see why it would be slow to register, if at all.
Even on the SuperCs, which had water pumps and thermostats, and where the probe for the gauge was placed in the upper outlet, where the coolant flows out of the head and back to the top of the radiator (and therefore warmer than the coolant at the bottom), they were slow to warm up and register. My Super C, which was always a gas motor (as opposed to dual fuel or distillate), was bought new in the Catskills, and it came with radiator shutters. I've run that tractor in the Catskills and up here in Maine and can tell you that without being able to close the shuttersthe shutters, I'm not sure how hard and long I'd have to work that tractor in winter weather to even get the needle up into the run range, een with the probe at the hot outlet from the head.
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