@JohnM: No, it's your usual 10si with the internal regulator, but as for the two terminals on the regulator (voltage Sense (#2 terminal) and Excite (#1)), NEITHER was connected. In the absence of any voltage to the Excite terminal, it was behaving like a one-wire, and requiring high RPMs to start charging... in the absence of any voltage to the Sense terminal, it was essentially pegged to the max of its output, thinking the battery was so low it could not be 'seen', and so should be charged.
After I corrected it, it still overcharged the battery and blew up coils, so I changed it out for the one from the Jeep (also where I got the TFI coil). Now the Jeep's alt is dead too, hence my post.
@old: No, once I figured out the issue with the regulator terminals, I connected the Excite lead (#1) directly to the off-on ignition switch by the driver's right shin, NOT the coil OR the distributor.
@RVirgil: No, the tractor came to me Negative ground, as it should be for a Delco 12V conversion.
@Jim: Thanks for the info re: diodes and plug wires. I've completed an order to our YT parts store for an ignition condenser (separate issue) and the Pertronix wires. The next time I am in town, I will pick up a diode from "The Shack"... or is an 'idiot light' a better idea? From the look of posts here, people seem to go back and forth about that one, I hope that was not a "Chevy vs. Ford" type of question.
Back to my original concern: Assuming everything is wired correctly, is it possible for the RFI of unshielded copper wires, or the surge of a points ignition, to somehow damage the alternator?
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