There is no need to worry about "torque specifications" for radiator bolts. I cannot imagine assembly line workers or servicemen taking the time to torque them to a specific amount. Snug them up as you would any 5/16" bolt. Start in the middle and work your way out. I would recommend that you coat each of them with Permatex Never Seize to make a future disassembly much easier. As far as silicone is concerned, its great stuff if properly used. Many people use it incorrectly, causing problems in engines and transmissions, as large pieces end up blocking oil passages when they come off on the inside of the assembly. I personally prefer to make the radioator gasket out of the cork/rubber composite material available at almost all automotive supply stores. I spread a THIN coat of RTV on each side and allow it to get good and tacky before I apply the gasket and bolt the assembly together. A cub's cooling system has no water pump and is a "passive", thermo siphon system. Small chunks of excess RTV could easily plug the tops of the tubes in your core, but it would take several of them to cause the tractor to overheat and it would be difficult for them to get there in the first place, as they would most likely settle in the bottom of the tank. Don't worry about using it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Niagra View Mobile - Powered by a 1959 Ford Tractor - by Mark Massey. In 1959 the Niagara Frontier Transit Inc. of Buffalo, New York designed and built six Viewmobiles for the Niagara Frontier Sightseeing Inc. for use as a sightseeing ride at the Niagara Falls State Park, Niagara Falls, New York, powered by a 1959 Ford 611 Tractor.
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