Posted by ScottyHOMEy on March 07, 2010 at 07:51:37 from (70.105.231.36):
In Reply to: Tool advice posted by MNC on March 06, 2010 at 17:56:43:
Just to flesh out some of the good lists of hand tools below, I'd say (again) pry bars of different lengths, and add scrapers (both single-edge razorblade holders, and those that more resemble a thin, long-shanked chisel). Torque wrenches of appropriate capacities.
For lifting and support, a chain fall can be nice if you have adequate meat above to hold it, but a little limiting. A regular one-ton engine hoist is a lot more versatile. A rolling floor jack can be handy, and bottle jacks and jack stands are a given.Plenty of 4x4 or 6x6 wood (not concrete!) blocking for cribbing things up, an assortment of jack stands and bottle jacks. As far as splitting stands, they can be exotic or simple, and I don't know of one that would work on both your Ford and your SuperM. Often, they are simply home built for the application. They need to be of heavy enough material to hold the load and designed/braced to that they can't fold up and collapse under a load.
Those lists below are pr3eety thorough for getting started. Depending what you get into for work, you'll add things (a LOT of things) as you go. You'll find some hard-to-get-to nuts and bolts here and there, and you'll need a stubby wrench or a crow-foot to get to them. A good dial caliper is handy and, if you start getting into pistons and cranks, a good set of micrometers and hole gauges. A compression gauge. Assorted picks and hooks. Valve spring and piston ring compressors. Don't forget the nut splitter.
On the pneumatic side, a simple blow gun is a given. In time, a 1/2" impact wrench, a 3/8" ratchet, an air hammer and straight and angle die grinders will find their way into your collection. And a compressor and tank big enough to run them. For electrical stuff, a simple test probe and a multimeter are handy. Then there's supplies. Penetrants, lubricants, filters, coolants, cleaners, nuts, bolts, cotter pins, sealers, Loctite, abrasives (emery, garnet, wet/dry paper, steel wool, Scotch-brite pads), electrical connectors . . .
It can all be very addicting. I worked for years out of what I could carry in an 8x10x20" handbox and stow in a 6-drawer chest. As I came to need more (metrics for the newer vehicles, bigger for bigger work, specialty tools . . .) I find my stuff taking up 45 drawers in rolling carts and stacked chests, and some of those drawers are quite full. And shelving and cabinets . . .
For $$$, it's probably a toss-up as to which is the most expensive drawer in my shop -- it's either the 3/4" socket drawer with ratchet and breaker bar, or the one with my calipers, micrometers and hole gauges. So you can spend a little or a lot. The basic lists will get you going. Craftsman grade is fine for the home shop, and it's hard to beat the pricing on their sets. I'm not a fan of their big comprehensive sets -- to fill them out, the cost of individual sockets and so on would exceed the cost of having bought a screwdriver set, socket and combination wrenches in different sizes and so on. Sometimes it works out better to buy a set to expand your range of sizes in sockets and wrenches, and in a lot of cases (like 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches that have an uncanny knack for diappearing, the bolts that have a nut on the other end that needs a wrench on both ends) duplicates aren't necessarily a bad thing.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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