A few possibilities come to mind to raise the coils input voltage to full unballasted battery voltage (less the normal voltage drop caused by the starters high current) ONLY WHILE CRANKING which can improve cold weather starts...
1) Not sure if its an option or available on your particualr starter switch BUTTTTTTTTTT on the saddle mount mount mechanical push to start switches as used on many Deere and other starters they make what are otherwise IDENTICAL push type switches (rod activated) EXCEPT THAY HAVE AN ADDITIONAL SMALL SIDE TERMINAL WHICH IS HOT ONLYYYYYYY WHEN ENGAGED. On Deere and others you simply run a wire from that terminal up to the coils input teminal so ONLY WHILE CRANKING you are by passing the normal (12 to 6) voltage drop of the ballast resistor....
2) It would be soooooo cheap and easy to use a momentary push button switch on the dash which when depressed sends hot unballasted battery voltage direct to the coils input and simply depress it while you pull the starter rod
3) You could convert the starter and push switch arrangement to a Ford type solenoid electric start as its extra little I terminal is hot ONLY WHILE CRANKING and is used to by pass the ballast at that time by sending voltage to the coils input
NOTE you may wanna check what the coil voltage is via the ballast with ignition on and the poinst closed MAYBE THE BALLAST IS TOO HIGH OHMS AND DROPPING TOO MUCH VOLTAGE. Id expect say 6 to 8 volts butttt if its like 4 or 5 the ballast isnt the correct ohms size to match the coil. Ballast resistors may be like 1.2 ohms all the way up to near 2 ohms depending on the coil they were designed for soooooooooooooo maybe you dont have the correct coil and ballast match
NOTE are you sure of the coil you have?? You need a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system if youre using a ballast intended to drop 6 volts WELL DUH. A coil designed for full 12 volts if ballasted results in a weak spark especially while cranking......
Hopefully other gents can add more methods if I missed any, which Im sure I did
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