Understandable, your concern, but 64" is the minimum treadwidth for a B. (On a BN, it's 56") The trick to that is that it's measured to the center of the tread. So you have to add half the width of each tire, twice, or the width of one tire as it works out, to get to the overall width.
The very narrowest width is achieved by dishing the wheels in, and mounting the rims to the sides of the wheels nearest the tractor, and the outside of the rims mounted to the wheel, so that the offset of the rim is toward the tractor.At this width you can be sure that any chains swill beat on your fenders.
Four inches wider (68"), you keep the rims oriented the same, (offset to the inside) but mount them to the outsides of the rims. (At this width, good tight chains with the looses ends bungeed end might clear okay).
Four inches more (total of eight, to make 72) you move the tires and rims to opposite sides of the tractor (to keep your tread working for you), and mount them as I described in the first post, to the insides of the rim with the wide side of the offset to the outside. (Chains shouldn't be a problem at this width -- you'll have 4"+ clearance between your tires and fenders.)
That's as wide as you'd want to go if you find you have to back the tractor on to get your load balanced for hauling, since you'd have to get the rears through the fenders to get backed on fare enough.
If with that wide front, the front is heavy enough that you can balance your load pulling one, you can go one more increment of four inches, to 76", by keeping the rims oriented the same as 72" and moving them to the outside of the wheels.
After that, you dish the wheels out and start over in the same order to get to a full 92" tread.
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