Posted by karl f on November 21, 2009 at 07:32:46 from (209.188.106.159):
In Reply to: Re: Headlight Switch posted by LenND on November 20, 2009 at 18:09:18:
If I remember right the dim setting was for driving on a public road and you met a car. Same setup as all motor vehicles. darn feds and all their regulations complicating things :) the resistance wire must have been the cheaper and simpler way to provide a dim setting. Notice most cars going back a long time have seperate bulbs or different filaments for dim function. I have a 1929 Dyke's auto encyclopedia (it's like a how stuff works book for mechanics), and most of those cars have dim resistors in their light circuits. I would imagine the cars went away from a hot resistor to prevent fire as things got more complicated and fancy.
a perceived high/low switching to oncoming traffic is more important than specific ratings (within reason, still don't want to blind anyone) Whether you do it with a dimmed bulb or a set of lamps with a different focus is up to you. Usually farm equipment is given enough leeway to get the job done, within common sense. But check local laws, especially if you aren't farming with it.
our 400 had the dimmer disconnected for a long time. I hooked it back up and don't care for the results either. I observed without the resistor, there are enough contacts to control seperate light circuits, so one could use different lamps for different functions. The older switch contacts are all screwed together, but the newer ones are crimped and riveted. I think either way you can modify how your low and high work. just don't exceed the load of 2 (approx 35 watt each) headlights and one rear work light at any time! i feel this should also include the newer machines with floodlights and flashers tied into the light switch. Use relays to handle the extra lights and when you decide to use more powerful bulbs. and go up a wire size. stay safe
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