You recognize that you've got some work to do (like getting that steering squared away!) before you want to move her around a lot and figure out what else she needs. So I'm thinking I'd go at it in a three-stage process. First get the motor running. Then some running and driving it as sort of a test/analysis phase to figure out what else needs doing. Last is to prioritize all those things and set about fixing them.
For the motor, there isn't much to it, as long as it's free and turning, and hasn't accumulated too much water in the crankcase, than to replace the oil and filter. As someone suggested, it couldn't hurt to pull all the plugs and drop a teaspoon or so of oil into each cylinder before turning it over. Before the obvious step of draining from the plug on the bottom of the pan, open the upper petcock on the side of the pan first. If you get nothing or only oil from there, a straight change of oil will do. If you get water from that high up in the pan, it's probably prudent to drop the pan and make sure the water didn't get high enough to get to the crank and bearings. If that's all good, finish draining, put the plug back, close the petcock and add five new quarts and a filter, and that part's ready to give it a try.
As far as valves that might have stuck while it was sitting, it's your choice. You can wait until you try starting it to see if they're moving freely, or give them a cursory check first. IF the latter, do that before you refill with new oil. Pull the valve cover, and watch the action of the valves as the motor turns. Best done by turning with a hand crank, with the plugs out and oil in the cylinders. That's also a good time to clean off any sludge and gunk under the valve cover that will accumulate around the rocker and spring assemblies. A good wiping down to get the heavy stuff off followed by a brushing down with diesel or kerosene will be sufficient at this point. The excess kero will flow down into the pan and drain away. And a sozzling of diesel kero down through where the push rods come up will help to flush down any fine stuff. A new valve cover gasket, and you're ready to add new oil. After you've replaced the drain plug and closed the petcock. (I've mentioned that twice now, for reasons I prefer not to dwell upon!)
Of course, you'll fill your radiator before you try running it. I use plain water when first starting up like you are, just to save having to handle antifreeze in case I have to drain it back to deal with leaks that might show up. If you're satisfied that it's not leaking, drain it when you're done if there's any danger of it freezing and then refill each time, or put an antifreeze mix in it to get you by until you deal with the oversize radiator.
Couldn't hurt to check the transmission lube while you're waiting for/working on your magneto. If it's overfull, that's likely a case of water in it, too, in which case I'd drain it and refill to the level plug. Anything that it takes on refill that is less than its five-quart capacity will be an indication of how much sludge is in there, but that's information for another day. You'll be ahead in the short run just getting any water out and having the gears turning in oil.
The only other thing that comes to mind that might make for an in immediate problem is that the clutch may be stuck. It's kind of 50-50, but a lot of times when they've set for that long, the friction disc can bond to the flywheel and it won't disengage. You can check for that by having some one in the seat depressing the pedal and, with the transmission in gear, have someone else try to push the tractor. If she rolls, you're good for the moment.
There are plenty of other things to check out. Noisy bearings and leaky seals around the tranny and final drives. Clutch and brakes. Oil and coolant leaks. YOu may find your piston rings are stuck. The steering box, in addition to the jury-rigged tie rods. But getting the motor turning and firing comes first.
And a little caution in moving it around at first will be in order. I don't know how tender that steering is, but you may also have little or nothing for brakes.
A's are great little tractors to work on. Stick around and let us know how you're making out.
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Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro
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