Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Should I, or shouldn't I? Removal of a pin.


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on November 06, 2009 at 04:13:13 from (70.105.255.111):

In Reply to: Should I, or shouldn't I? Removal of a pin. posted by Mike CA on November 05, 2009 at 20:28:42:

First the easy part. That is a rivet, IH part #104091, listed as a subcomponent of the bearing. Unfortunately they don't list dimensions for it.

As far as straightenening your post, I tend to favor Wardner's method of taking it off and beating it straight in a cradle of some sort.

My only reasons for that preference are two potential ACK!!!! scenarios. Any pulling will put a lot of torque on that post and you run the risk of breaking the weld between the bottom of the post and the flange that bolts it all down. If you do decide to pull it, keep your strap or comealong fairly low, don't pull it from the top.

That and there are, what, three or four holes through the post for mounting other stuff (electrical box, the arm for your hydraulic controls . . .) and, depending what direction you're pulling, every one of them is a spot that might bend before the spot you're trying to straighten. You can minimize that danger some by cutting a notch in the length of a piece of 2x4 adn using t as a cradle for the length of the post, and pull against the 2x4. Two ratchet straps might be more effective in that set up, one about a thrid of the way down from the top and the other about halfway between the upper strap and the bend. Do most of your pulling with the lower one to avoid the snapping off of the bottom (see ACK!!!! Scenario #1).

I know it's a different setup from my SuperC, but if that post is anything like mine, it's got some spring to it. Just the weight of me using the steering wheel to haul my carcass up on flexes it enough to actually give a slight input to the hydraulics. Point is you might have to pull it past straight to get it to spring back to where it should end up, which is more tension on that bottom joint, and what leads me to favor pounding it out. You're going to have to strip the hydro bracket and other stuff bolted to the post either way you go, and from there it's a short matter to pull your steering wheel, unbolt the flange and the bottom and slip the post, bearing, and all, off the upper end of the shaft to get it onto the bench.

That's my two cents.


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Ford N-Series Transmission/Hydraulic Fluid - The Full Story - by Llamas. The transmission fluid in an “N”:-series tractor lubricates the transmission, differential, rear wheel bearings, PTO and hydraulic pump drive, and it also cats as the working fluid for the hydraulic lift. In 9N/2N models, it also lubricates the steering sector and shaft system. The owner’s manual for the 9N and 2N models specified the use of only two fluids. They were STRAIGHT MINERAL OIL SAE 90 (above freezing) and ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy