Like Wardner said, it may sound "Mickey Mouse", but it's the easiest, cheapest way there is. Doesn't matter if it's a Farmhand, Prince, whatever kind of pump. Just take a couple of the bolts out of the outside body/frame of the pump. Drill holes in a piece of angle or flat iron to match the holes you removed the bolts from in the pump. Now bolt the iron to the pump, using new bolts long enough to allow for the thickness of the iron. Make sure you cut your iron long enough, that with it pointing down from the pump towards the ground, when the pump is slid on to the PTO shaft, that the iron will run up against the right side of the tractor draw bar, facing from the rear of the tractor. That's what keeps the pump from turning with the torque of the PTO shaft when it's engaged. Now run a piece of light weight chain, forward from the iron you attached to the pump, to something like the drawbar support, which runs cross ways under the drawbar. Put just enough tension on this chain that it will keep the pump for working back off of the PTO shaft. If you're going to be using your PTO a lot, and don't want to be taking that loader pump off to do so, get a PTO shaft extension long enough to allow for the thickness, front to back, of the loader pump, plus enough shaft sticking out through the back of the pump, to allow for hooking up other PTO equipment. Hope this helps, and if you don't understand it, PM me, and I'll send you a picture. :wink:
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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