The bands are identical as far as I remember, and you could swap them. I suppose if you took them to a shop that does clutch and brake re-lining and they could tell you quick enough if they could re-line them. The linings are bonded to the bands, not riveted, so I doubt it. I don't know how much new ones are, but I'll bet they would be $150 or more each. The brake band is kind of important too, because if it is not holding, the PTO shaft will either always creep or turn full speed even with the lever in the off position. The only "special" tool you will need is a puller like a harmonic balancer puller. The first and last one I did was when I was about 16 (I'm 45 now) so they are not very hard to diassemble and reassemble. I did use an I&T manual. I replaced the drive band and the shaft seal. The drive worked great after that, and still does (it was slipping before) but the cylinder with the spring in it was then and still is stuck, so I always had a hard time keeping it adjusted so the shaft would not creep in the off position. I just never took the time to free it up. I still plan to though(!). I remember at the time the one band we bought was $40 and we thought that was a terrible price for that part. Oh, the good old days!
As far as the engine clutch goes, there is a plate under the clutch housing you can take off and see the flywheel and clutch, but the way that clutch is designed there isn't really anything you can see that will tell you anything about the condition of the clutch. The only simple way I know of to check it is to make sure you have the TA and clutch pedal linkage adjusted as/per the manual, then put it in high gear with engine at half throttle on level ground and let the clutch right out. It if the tractor takes off and the clutch doesn't slip, it is OK, at least for now. The only other way is to split the tractor.
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