There are 12v generators, but alternators are far more common on conversions. The presence fo an alternator would be a dead giveaway of a 12v conversion.
If you have a battery ignition (as opposed to a magneto) ou might look over your coil to see if it indicates that it's a 12v, but that wouldn't be as sure as the alternator. Some cois are built to step down internally, from 12v to the 6v to the points. Others require an externalresitor to step the voltage down beforeit gets to the coil. If you trace back the wire leading into your coild from the battery end and find a resitor in it somewhere, that would be another sign that it is 12v.
As far as the hard turning, I'd hazard that you have a poor connection somewhere. Shiny and bright is the rule for all terminals, lugs and connections. Make sure you'e got good connections at the battery terminals. It's a good idea to cleanup around where the ground cable bolts to the chassis -- clean the underside of the bolthead to mare metal, as well as a small area under the lug on the cable. Metal to metal is what you want -- paint is a poor conductor.
Apart from that, you could have poor or inadequate cables. If you detect objectionable heat anywhere along the cables after cranking, that would be the place to look for corrosion of your cable ( most common near the battery terminals)or a poor connection
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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