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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Farmall 706 starting issues


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Posted by Tom 43 on July 24, 2009 at 13:16:54 from (70.142.52.237):

In Reply to: Farmall 706 starting issues posted by r0ckman20 on July 24, 2009 at 11:40:51:

The first step is to buy a voltmeter. I bought one at Harbor Freight for $4.00 last week. The next step is to go to the Restoration forum where CNKS has just posted a wiring diagam for the 706.

1) Hook the voltmeter across the brightened terminals of the battery(not the cables, but the terminals) 2)Crank the tractor and read the voltage. It must not drop below 10 and1/2 volts. If it doesn't charge battery and try again. If it fails again replace battery.

Assuming negative ground: Put positive lead of meter on center of positive battery terminal and negative lead on solenoid terminal where battery terminal attaches. 1)While cranking the voltage lost between the battery should be 1/2 volt or less. If not replace with quality cable.

Now place the positive lead of meter on a brightened spot of starter case and the negative lead on the center of the negative battery terminal. While CRANKING the voltage must not drop below 1/2 volt If it does clean the metal between starter and block and clean the battery cable both where it attaches to the block and the negative terminal of the battery. If it fails again replace with a quality cable. While doing these tests unhook the coil primary so the engine doesn't start. Another test is to hook the positive terminal of the meter to the big battery terminal of the solenoid and the big starter terminal of the solenoid and you will have 12 volts at rest, but should have less than 1/2 while cranking. If not replace the solenoid.

Now we are ready for the control circuit where I expect your problem lies since it cranked while bypassing the control circuit. The light switch is not involved according to the diagram. 1) Put the positive lead of the meter on the little S terminal of the solenoid which is hooked to the push button switch. Hook the other lead of the meter to ground and turn the key on and push the switch and you must read 10 volts or more. If you don't you need to keep backing upstream with the positive lead of the meter until you find good voltage while cranking. Where the voltage is lost is your problem.

For a quick test when the tractor is hot and won't crank do this: 1) Hook the meter across the center of the battery terminals and it must read 12 volts then try to crank and it must read over 10 and 1/2 volts. This verifies it is not the battery. Now take a jumper wire you have taken with you with alligator clips on it and being sure the tractor is in PARK clip one end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery and the other end to the little S terminal of the Solenoid. If it now cranks you don't need to worry about the earlier cable tests as you have bypassed the push button switch, the key switch and their inherent wiring.

My e-mail is jdluvr@swbell.net and my phone # is 918 627 3317. Let me know where you found the problem.


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